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Varanasi
[ Edit ] Overview
Varanasi is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world and one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India. Varanasi is situated on the west bank of the river Ganges and is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists (Sarnath). The ancient name of the city was Kashi and it was also called Benaras for some time. The name Varanasi means the "City between the two rivers" - Varuna and Assi.
Attracting a million+ pilgrims every year, the city lives and breathes traditional Hindu religion, rituals, and culture. Hindus believe that Varanasi is an auspicious place to die given that his soul is released from the cycle of birth and death and that he goes to heaven.
Bathing ghats, chillum-smoking sadhus, temples, sunset Ganga Aarti, cremation grounds where the fire never dies, narrow alleys, and throngs of pilgrims, sum up the Varanasi experience.
[ Edit ] History
Rivaled only by Damascus (Syria), Benares is arguably the oldest continually inhabited city in the world. The city has references in the great Hindu scriptures including the Rigveda, Ramayana and Mahabharata and in the Buddhist Jataka tales. According to mythology, it is believed that Lord Shiva and his wife Parvati came to reside in Varanasi after their marriage and that Lord Shiva never left the city thereafter. Thus Varanasi is an important pilgrimage destination for Shaivites.
The city has been an important centre for religion and learning for over 2,500 years as well as a thriving trade center given its location. Other religions too find importance in Varanasi. Buddha gave his first sermon here (in the suburb of Sarnath) in 567 BC. Three of the Tirthankaras (disciples of Mahavira, the founder of Jainism) were born in Varanasi.
Varanasi was repeatedly raided by Muslim rulers starting with Mahmud of Ghazni in 1033 AD through to Emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th century. Aurangazeb in particular played a significant role in destroying most of the ancient temples in Benares. Sadly, even though Varanasi has 2,500+ year old history, much of what is seen today in the city is only about 250 years old (i.e. rebuilt since the earlier destruction).
Quick Facts
[ Edit ] State
Uttar Pradesh, India
[ Edit ] Location
810 km from Delhi and 290 km from Lucknow Along the Ganga in eastern Uttar Pradesh
[ Edit ] Best Time To Visit
Given its importance for pilgrimage, Varanasi can be visited throughout the year. However, October to March is the most pleasant time of year to visit Varanasi.
[ Edit ] Tourist Offices
[ Edit ] STD Code
0542
Sightseeing
[ Edit ] Alamgir Mosque
Commonly known as the Beni Madhav Ka Darera, the mosque was built by Aurangzeb after destroying a Vishnu temple that stood on the site. The lower portion of the mosque and the enclosure walls are entirely in Hindu designs while the rest of it is in Mughal design.
[ Edit ] Birla Temple (Vishwanath Temple)
Located near the Benaras Hindu University, the temple was built the industrial family of Birlas. Dedicated to Lord Shiva the temple is a replica of the original Vishwanath temple that was destroyed by Aurangazeb. The temole was planned by Pandit Malaviya who was a great nationalist and wanted to have a temple open to all people irrespective of the caste or religion. The white marble temple has a Shiva lingam and verses from Hindu scriptures inscribed on its walls.
[ Edit ] Durga Temple
Built in the 18th century by a Bengali Maharani the temple is also referred to as the Monkey temple. Goddess Durga, an angry form of Goddess Parvati is a consort of Lord Shiva. Built in the North Indian style of architecture the temple has a multi-tiered spire built on on top of the other tapering to a single shikara symbolizing air, water, fire, earth and sky, the 5 elements of nature.
Non Hindus are not allowed inside the temple but can view it from a walkway at the top of a house. The monkeys at the temple can be fairly aggressive trying to steal caps or spectacles off people and often scratching or biting people when they get near.
[ Edit ] Gyanvapi Mosque
Also known as the Great Mosque of Aurangzeb, the mosque was built over Raja Todar Mal's Vishwanath temple. The architecture of the mosque is an interesting mixture of Hindu and Muslim styles because a lot of material from the temple was salvaged and used randomly in the construction of the mosque. The mosque has a 71m high minarets towering over the Ganges.
[ Edit ] Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple)
Kashi Vishwanath Temple or Golden Temple as it is also known, is one of the most important Hindu temples in India. Dedicated to Lord Shiva the temple is over 1000 years old. Its gold towers gained it the name of Golden temple.
It is believed that Aurangazeb destroyed the original temple built in the 1600 and built a mosque in its places. A few traces of that original temple still remain behind the mosque. The present temple was built in 1776 by Ahalya Bai or Indore. The gold for the towers was provided by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore. There is a well near the temple where the Shiv lingam from the original temple is said to have been hidden to protect it during the destruction of the temple.
- Non Hindus are not allowed inside the temple but can view it from outside.
[ Edit ] Sarnath
Located 10km from Varanasi, Sarnath or Deer Park is the place where Buddha delivered his first sermon known as the Four Noble Truths. The Park also has the 34m high ancient Dhamekh Stupa along with the ruins of ancient monasteries.
[ Edit ] The Ghats
The city practically revolves around its 7km long sweep of some 100 bathing ghats along the river Ganges. The ghats are a series of steps that descend down to the river. Pilgrims take a dip in the waters at these ghats in an effort to cleanse their souls. At some of the ghats the dead are cremeated in burning pyres.
The ghats were teeming with life: people walking or bathing, hundreds of aggressive touts (many children) trying to sell candles for floating on the Ganga (“mother Ganga, this good for your karma”) or boat rides, children playing cricket and the usual dogs, cows, buffalos and goats. The riverside was dirty,
Of the over 100 ghats five of them are considered to be most sacred and are called Panchteerthis. The Panchteerthis are Assi, Dasasvamedh, Adi Keshava, Panchaganga and Manikarnika. The best way to view the ghats is to hire a boat and view them from the river. Boats are easily available for hire and rates are negotiable but should be decided upon before embarking on the journey.
Dasasvamedh Ghat is probably the best starting point. It is one of the main and centrally located ghats. The grand evening aarti is held here. Dasasvamedh is named after the ceremony of sacrifice of 10 horses by Lord Brahma, the creator. There is a shrine of Goddess Sitala. Rows of priest are seen sitting at the ghat to perform various rituals desired by the pilgrims.
Assi Ghat is located in the southern most part of the city at the confluence of the Asi and the Ganges. There is a lingam here under a peepul tree that is highly revered by pilgrims.
Manikarnika Ghat is used for cremating the dead. There is a tank in the middle of this ghat called Manikarnika well. Goddess Parvati is said to have dropped her earring here and Lord Shiva dug out this tank to recover it. Photography is not permitted here and cameras should be put away from the site of the people at the ghat to not show any possibility of photographs being taken here.
Panchaganga Ghat as the name suggests is the meeting place of the five sacred rivers and has several images of the five river goddess, Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Dhupapapa and Kirana. Above the ghat there is a mosque built by Aurangazeb called Alamgir Mosque.
Adi Keshava Ghat located on the outskirts of the city is the meeting point of the River Varuna and Ganga. This is said to be the site where Lord Vishnu landed as an emissary of Lord Shiva. The ghat gets completely submerged into the river and thereby becomes unapproachable then.
Scindia Ghat when originally built in 1830 was so top heavy that the structure collapsed and was later rebuilt in 1937 by Daulat Rao Scindia of Gwalior. The temple here is half submerged in water and the sanctum in almost knee high deep.
Harishchandra or Shamshan Ghat is a burning ghat but secondary to Manikarnika Ghat. Tulsi Ghat, previously known as Lolarka Ghat is one of the oldest sites in the city. Named after the poet Tulsidas, his house and temple are located near by. Mansarowar Ghat named after the Tibetan lake at Mount Kailash was built by Man Singhof Amber.
[ Edit ] Tulsi Manas Temple
A fairly recent temple, the white marble Tulsi Manas temple was built in 1964. It is the place where a famous poet and saint Tulsidas composed and sang stories of Ram Charit Manas in Avadhi, a dialect of Hindi. The walls of the temple have verses and scenes from the Ram Charit Manas engraved on it.
- Non Hindus are not allowed inside the temple.
Planning a Trip
Getting There
[ Edit ] Air
Varanasi airport is well connected to major cities and towns in the country.
[ Edit ] Rail
Varanasi Junction and Mughal Serai are the two main stations in Varanasi. Varanasi Junction is about 3km from the city while Mughal Serai station is located at a distance of about 15km from the city.
[ Edit ] Road
Varanasi is very well connected by a network of roads and road transport to all major towns of Uttar Pradesh and surrounding areas.
Driving distances from:
[ Edit ] Getting Around
The best way to get around the city is to hire an auto rickshaw or a cycle rickshaw for the day. Rates must be fixed before starting the journey and will require a good deal of bargaining. Alternatively a private taxi or car can be rented for the day. But very often they get stuck in the traffic. There are several buses that ply the streets of Varanasi but they are almost always over crowded and uncomfortable.
[ Edit ] Other Information
Take a boat ride in the river Ganges and get a view of the ghats from a different angle.
Attend a concert of Indian classical music. There are always several small and big concerts happening in the city. Flyers advertising the concerts can be seen at restaurants and hotels.
Take up a course in yoga. There are several yoga institutes here.
[ Edit ] Shopping
Varanasi is known for its silk brocades and Banares saris. The best place to buy them is Golghar near the GPO, where you can buy directly from the makers. The big shops selling this kind of work are generally oriented in the Chowk area of the old city.
Behind the Dasasvamedh Ghat there is a winding lane called Vishwanath Gali lined with a multitude of shops selling religious objects.
Other things of interest in Varanasi are brass and copper handicraft objects, lacquered wooden toys, silver jewellery and souveniers. These can be found at Thatheri Bazaar, Chowk, Vishwanath gali or Gyanvapi.
[ Edit ] Food
Varanasi has a lot of religious legends, a lot of which also relate to food. It was in Kashi that Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati made a pact that he would provide moksha after death, and she would provide food in life, hence another name for her is Annapurna (literally meaning food aplenty). Another food legend is that Maharishi Vyas (the sage who narrated the tale of Mahabharata which Lord Ganesh scribed) could not get food as alms in Kashi, and in a fit of anger, the sage gave a curse that Kashi would go without knowledge, wealth or moksha for three generations. However, the next house where he begged, had Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati as its residents. Parvati lovingly fed the sage, which was so delicious that Vyas burst out into exclamation, saying "Who would not live in Kashi, where one can get both delicious food and liberation".
For Kachoris - Near the Vishwanath Mandir, you can find the Kachori Gali, where many shops serve a great breakfast of Kachori & Aloo Subzi from 8am to 11am everyday. For Rs. 10, you get 2 crisp stuffed kachoris, filled with ground dal & hing (Indian asafoetida), served with hot Aloo Matar subzi. Another great place to try Kachoris is Ram Bhandar at Thatheri Bazaar. The difference at Ram Bhandaar is that the subzi comprises a mix of Aloo, Vadi (paste made from dal that has been dried in the sun), Chhole (white chickpeas), tamarind and a special green chutney.Also try Vishwanath Mishthan Bhandar at Vishweshwar Ganj, where the subzi differs every day of the week, ranging from Aloo to Gobhi (Cauliflower) to Matar (Peas). Finish your breakfast with a Jalebi or two, at each of these shops. Jalebis are best eaten hot & crisp, and don't usually cost more than Rs. 5 per small serving.
A must try in Varanasi is Nimis. Nimis is made by boiling milk with saffron, pistachios and sugar, until it thickens visibly. This milk is then left out for the night, until dew collects on it. This is then churned to create froth, which is then scooped out into earthern plates or kulhars. Sold for Rs. 10 per plate, this unique dessert can be enjoyed at Markandeya at Chowkhambha.
Chaat at Varanasi can be enjoyed at any streetside vendor or hawker, and a great place to have chaat is Deenanath Keshari at Nariyal Gali near Chowk. Also known as Deena Chaat, this small shop serves great Dahi Bada, Golgappas, Spinach Papdi Chaat and most importantly, an excellent Aloo Tikki.
While food in Varanasi is mostly vegetarian, there are plenty of places where you can find non-vegetarian and international cuisine, largely due to the influx of foreigners over the years. Haifa and Hayat, near Assi Ghaat, serve lebanese and mediterranean food, including hummus, baba ghanoush, kibbeh, pita sandwiches, lasagna and pastas, among other things. Also try the Pizzeria Vatika Cafe near Hayat itself, which serves crisp thin crust pizzas. Brown Bread Bakery near Meer Ghaat is another good place for international cuisine.
Great Lassi is available near BombayDyeing, Dwarkapuri Chowk, and Shiv Lassi Bhandaar near RamgarhFort.
Varanasi also has an old connection with Bengalis, including the house where Bhartendu Harishchandra lived near Chowk. As a result, there are a few good Bengali food options available in Varanasi, should you want to try them. Bengali Hotel near Dashwamedh Ghaat, Jolajog at Godawlia Junction and Jayanti near Luxa police station are the favored joints of local Bengalis.
You can't leave Varanasi without trying the famous Banarasi Paan. Ask any paan wala to make you a nice paan with Maghai leaf, which is the favoured melt-in-mouth paan leaf for all locals.
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